WRITE ABOUT THE CHANGES IN TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE
INDUSTRY
Textiles are an important source of reference for the cultural studies because
of their universality. Textiles have always draped the body, whether
human/deities/animal, floor and furniture. Unlike stone, clay, metal etc. textiles
were traditionally made from biodegradable materials. Cotton (natural cellulose
fiber), silk, wool (natural protein fibers) were three main materials for textiles,
apart from bast and leaf fibers. Initially very simple technologies were used for
making the textiles. The most basic skill involved spinning the fiber into yarn and
then changes it to fabric by a process called weaving. The implements used for
weaving and spinning were and in many parts of India still continue to be of
biodegradable materials like wood .There is exist a very scant reference of the
fabric making skills in the archaeological excavations. Along with the tools of their
manufacture, fabric materials have long degraded in our tropical climate.
Textiles consist of fibers, yarns, fabrics and finishes. Each of these stages
has a variety of processes involved to reach the next stage. Hand and feet have
even today remained the tools for various processes supported by materials like
wood, terracotta, metal, yarns, beads, semiprecious stones, colors etc. The concept
of the Indian textile technologies is intricately related to both, the manufacture and
decoration. This may therefore be researched in a chronological framework starting
from archaeological past to the contemporary times. Regional developments have
been very typical to certain styles of manufacture and decorations in textiles.
VII TESTING
a. Testing & quality monitoring equipments Cotton Contamination Analyzer
Fibre neps, trash particles and seed-coat fragments are visible foreign
matters in cotton. These foreign matters affect yarn & fabric appearance and
reduce the efficiency of machines. In order to analyze these contaminations, This
analyzer consists of micro card that converts the raw cotton into thin uniform web
without removing impurities, is also scanned by CCD Camera and processed by
imaging system to classify undesirable particles in terms of their size and number.
This information will provide vital feedback in upgrading cotton material,
efficiency and quality in blow room and carding processes
b. Design and Development of Pilling Tester using Digital Image Processing
(DIP) Technology
The technology for developing it from IIT Delhi to develop a digital image
processing based pilling tester for objective evaluation of pilling instead of
subjective and visual comparison. After the successful development it is expected
that international standards like BS, ASTM, DIN and IS will incorporate the
development as new standard for evaluation of pilling.
The main function of Pilling Tester is to test the pilling (hair ball)
characteristic of fabric and knit fabric cloths. Simulating the condition of when
weaving materials are worn, it will have the appearance of lint. Rolling the
specimen around a rubber tube and turning in a winding box for a period of time, it
is then compared to a standard picture to determine its grade. Test results are
usually determined after comparing with standard pictures, the average of four
tests per specimen.
But this development involves conversion of pilled fabric sample to digital image
and stored in a memory by the image acquisition element. This image will be
processed to obtain the various parameters like no. of pills, total pilled area, mean
pill area and no. of pills per unit area.
c. Textile testing equipments for strength testing and trash analysis
Technology/Process Description:
MAG provides complete solutions for instrumental analysis. It has more
than 65 products covering all sectors of the textile industry. Its manufacturing
facility is backed up with hybrid shop floor machines and spider networked
procurement. Mag R&D division is well equipped to design, develop and produce
not only the regular type of instruments but also tailor made equipments and
software to specific need of customers. Company focuses on catering the textile
industry with testing solutions rather than mere testing instruments with the help of
latest microcomputer technology.
It is proposed to develop rapier and air-jet loom along with ancillaries like heavy-
duty dobby, jacquard & color selector. The other details are as follows:
Rapier: Double rapier, 76" Width, 250 RPM with Tappet, 8 colors Weft, Positive
Tappet.
• Production is about 100 % higher than power loom
• Cost will be about 40 % of imported looms
• 95-98 % fabric realization can be achieved
• 5 times more labour productivity than plain power loom
• 30 % less space requirement than power loom
• With added value addition it is easy to maintain
• Versatile to work with any fabric and weaver friendly
• Unit cost of the machine will be Rs. 4 Lakhs
Air-Jet: 76" width, 350 rpm, Positive Cam shedding, Single Color
• Production is about 200 % higher than power loom
• Cost will be about 40 % of imported looms and good import substitute
• 95-98 % fabric realization can be achieved as against 80-85 % in power loom
• 10 times more labour productivity than plain power loom`
• 30 % less space requirement than power loom
• Unit cost of the machine will be Rs. 4 Lakhs
Dobby: 16 & 24 Jacks and Jacquard: 1200 hooks
• Pick finding system to be introduced.
• Dobby and Jacquards are only 20-30 % cost of imported items
• More value addition due to high design capacity with 1200 hooks
• Capable of running at higher speed.
At present the slow speed model rapier loom is successfully developed and its
performance is evaluated in mills. Now the company is developing high-speed
rapier loom and their ancillaries.
VI PROCESSING
Designs, development and manufacture of continuous bleaching range:
Bleaching consists of cleaning, removing dirt, natural oils, brining out inherent
luster of fibers, swelling of fibers fur softness and absorbency. But all the
bleaching process is carried out batch wise and thus uniformity in fabric
preparation become difficult to attain. The present trend is to have long length
fabric well prepared during earlier stages of processing so that final dyes or printed
fabric or even full white material is of high quality. The continuous bleaching
range is thus becomes highly useful in meeting these demands.
The development under this project integrates all stages of bleaching viz. desizing,
washing and chemical application for bleaching and neutralization. Hence the
process would over by 2 hrs against 36 hrs of batch process. Automatic chemical
dosing system reduced the dwell time as well as the dependence on supervising.
One full range has been manufactured and is under observation for performance
evaluation
|