PACIFIC SALMON FOR THE JAPANESE
Nobody eats as much Pacific salmon as the Japanese, who consume the fish
raw, pickled, baked, salted, fried, smoked and put in soup. They eat salmon liver,
and salmon skulls, and they process the fish into burgers and sausage. They eat
300,000 tons of the fish each year, a third of the world's total catch. The center of it
all is Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market, the largest on earth. Long before sunrise, the
market is buzzing. Hundreds of men and women rush around between stalls, shout
orders at one another, slice fish, work the telephones, and joke under bright strings
of lights that shine down on acres of iced-down fish steaks, shark fillets, and thick
red slabs of tuna stacked like wood. The concrete floors are newly washed and
swept. The whole place smells fresh, like the sea.
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