Conference at a Glance 12 September 2014



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Conference at a Glance

12 September 2014

09:15 Welcome

09:30–11:00 Keynote speaker #1: Professor Lou Taylor: “The Material Culture Story of Tailored Garments for Women 1870–1910” (chair: Nicole Robertson)

11:00–11:20 Coffee

11:20–12:50 Session 1: Cultures of Clothing: The Making, Selling and Presentation of Dress (Stevens, Evans, Andersson) (chair: Jane Holt)

12:50–13:50 Lunch

13:50–15:20 Session 2: Working with Textiles (Holt, Saunders, Burcikova and Swindells) (chair: Kate Strasdin)

15:20–15:40 Coffee

15:40–17:10 Session 3: Working Wardrobes (Johnstone, Strasdin, Martin) (chair: Juliette Pattinson)

17:10–17:30 Tour of the Bishopsgate Library and Archives by Stefan Dickers (Library and Archives Manager, Bishopsgate Institute)

17:30–18:30 Session 4: Clothing, Class and Community (Millett, Elmore) (chair: Janette Martin)

18:35–19:45 Evening Talk and Conference Wine Reception: Ali Wells (Keeper of Collections, Herbert Gallery & Museum, Culture Coventry Trust): “Keeping Up Appearances” (chair Stefan Dickers)



13 September

09:50–11.20 Session 5: First World War and Uniforms (Daley, J. Roberts, Pattinson) (chair: Patricia Zakreski)

11:20–11:40 Coffee

11:40–13:10 Session 6: The Fashion Business (Greenberg, Linsboth, Taylor) (chair: Jennifer Daly)

13:10–14:10 Lunch

14:10–16:10 Session 7: Women’s Wardrobe (Zakreski, Stephenson, Moody, C. Roberts) (chair: Ana Parejo Vadillo)

16:10–16:35 Coffee

16:35–17:35 Session 8: Fashion, Accessories and Identity (Andras, Vadilo) (chair: Nickianne Moody)

17:40–19:15 Keynote speaker #2 and Wine Reception: Professor Eugenia Paulicelli: “Women, Fashion, Feminism: Rosa Genoni and Italian National Identity” (chair: Vike Martina Plock)

Full Programme

12 September 2014

09:15 Welcome

09:30–11:00 Keynote speaker #1 (chair: Nicole Robertson)

Professor Lou Taylor

“The Material Culture Story of Tailored Garments for Women 1870–1910”

11:00–11:20 Coffee

11:20–12:50 Session 1: Cultures of Clothing: The Making, Selling and Presentation of Dress (chair: Jane Holt)



Christine Stevens

“The Country Tailor: A Welsh Case Study”



Jenny Evans

“Tracing Social Change through the Hodson Shop Collection and Archive”



Peter K. Andersson

“The Fustian Swagger: Dress and Body Language in the Self-Presentations of the Lower Classes, c.1870–1910”

12:50–13:50 Lunch

13:50–15:20 Session 2: Working with Textiles (chair: Kate Strasdin)



Jane Holt

“Teaching Fashion: Developments in Training for the Garment Trades in Early Twentieth-Century London”



Helen Saunders

“Textile and Textual: Slow and Fast Fashions in Ulysses

Mila Burcikova and Steve Swindells

“Continuity and Change: Workwear in Prospect”

15:20–15:40 Coffee

15:40–17:10 Session 3: Working Wardrobes (chair: Juliette Pattinson)



Claire Johnstone

“‘I’m Working at My Dress’: The Sartorial Negotiations of New Woman Literary Labourers”



Kate Strasdin

“A Working Royal Wardrobe: The Public Persona of Queen Alexandra”



Janette Martin

“Dressing the English Town Crier from 1835 to the Present”

17:10–17:30 Tour of the Bishopsgate Library and Archives by Stefan Dickers(Library and Archives Manager, Bishopsgate Institute)

17:30–18:30 Session 4: Clothing, Class and Community (chair: Janette Martin)



HolyGale Millett

“Worn Waistcoats and Hob-Nailed Boots: Clothes and Communities on Britain’s Water-Highway, 1880–1930”



Angela Elmore

“Clothing the Paupers of Southwell Workhouse and Southwell Union”

18:35–19:45 Evening Talk (chair: Stefan Dickers) and Conference Wine Reception:

Ali Wells (Keeper of Collections, Herbert Gallery & Museum, Culture Coventry Trust)

“Keeping Up Appearances”



13 September

09:50–11.20 Session 5: First World War and Uniforms (chair: Patricia Zakreski)

Jennifer Daley

“The Politics of Fashion and the Coding of Clothes: The Interconnected Histories of Sailor Uniforms and Civilian Fashion, 1914–1939”



Jennifer Roberts

“The Ghosts of Garments Past: A Study into the Trousered Uniform of the Women Munitions Workers during the First World War”



Juliette Pattinson

“Hussies, Freaks and Lady Soldiers: Representations of the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry”

11:20–11:40 Coffee

11:40–13:10 Session 6: The Fashion Business (chair: Jennifer Daly)



Elizabeth Greenberg

“Avenue to Success: Jewish Women Fashion Designers in New York 1919–1939”



Christina Linsboth

“No Need for French Fashion?: Tailors, Taste and Ready-Made Clothing in Vienna at the Turn of the Century”



Emily Taylor

“J. and E. Main and Sons: A Shop Story from Scotland”

13:10–14:10 Lunch

14:10–16:10 Session 7: Women’s Wardrobe (chair: Ana Parejo Vadillo)



Patricia Zakreski

“Art, Fashion and Individualism: Margaret Oliphant and the Politics of Women’s Dress”



Kate Stephenson

“Fashionable Females to Gymslips and Djibbahs: The Effects of Social and Educational Change on Girls’ School Uniform 1880–1939”



Nickianne Moody

“Appearance before Comfort: Sport, Fashion and the Negotiation of the Straight Line in Dress”



Cheryl Roberts

“Dispelling the Myth: The Influence of Cinema on the Fashion of Young, Working-Class Women in the 1930s”

16:10–16:35 Coffee

16:35–17:35 Session 8: Fashion, Accessories and Identity (chair: Nickianne Moody)



Sonia Andras

“Decoding the Hat: Women’s Fashion and Status in 1930s Bucharest”



Ana Parejo Vadillo

“Romantic Retro”



17:40–19:15 Keynote speaker #2 (chair: Vike Martina Plock) and Wine Reception

Professor Eugenia Paulicelli

“Women, Fashion, Feminism: Rosa Genoni and Italian National Identity”

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