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Regardless of the method used to acquire a pearl, the process usually takes several
years. Mussels must reach a mature age, which can take up to 3 years, and then be
implanted or naturally receive an irritant. Once the irritant is in place, it can take up to
another 3 years for the pearl to reach its full size. Often, the irritant may be rejected, the
pearl will be terrifically misshapen, or the oyster may simply die from disease or countless
other complications. By the end of a 5 to 10 year cycle, only 50% of the oysters will have
survived. And of the pearls produced, only approximately 5% are of substantial quality for
top jewelry makers. From the outset, a pearl farmer can figure on spending over $100 for
every oyster that is farmed, of which many will produce nothing or die.
F
Imitation pearls are a different story altogether. In most cases, a glass bead is dipped into
a solution made from fish scales. This coating is thin and may eventually wear off. One
can usually tell an imitation by biting on it. Fake pearls glide across your teeth, while the
layers of nacre on real pearls feel gritty. The Island of Mallorca (in Spain) is known for its
imitation pearl industry. Quality natural pearls are very rare jewels. The actual value of a
natural pearl is determined in the same way as it would be for other "precious" gems. The
valuation factors include size, shape, and color, quality of surface, orient and luster. In
general, cultured pearls are less valuable than natural pearls, whereas imitation pearls
almost have no value. One way that jewelers can determine whether a pearl is cultured
or natural is to have a gem lab perform an x-ray of the pearl. If the x-ray reveals a nucleus,
the pearl is likely a bead-nucleated saltwater pearl. If no nucleus is present, but irregular
and small dark inner spots indicating a cavity are visible, combined with concentric rings
of organic substance, the pearl is likely a cultured freshwater. Cultured freshwater pearls
can often be confused for natural pearls which present as homogeneous pictures which
continuously darken toward the surface of the pearl. Natural pearls will often show larger
cavities where organic matter has dried out and decomposed. Although imitation pearls
look the part, they do not have the same weight or smoothness as real pearls, and their
luster will also dim greatly. Among cultured pearls, Akoya pearls from Japan are some of
the most lustrous. A good quality necklace of 40 Akoya pearls measuring 7mm in diameter