absorbent probe close to the source of the smell. The probe looks something like a hypodermic
syringe, except that the ‘needle’ is made of silicone rubber which soaks up molecules from the
air. After a few hours, the hunters retract the rubber needle and seal the tube, keeping the
odour molecules inside until they can.be injected into the gas chromatograph in the laboratory.
D. Some of the most promising fragrances were those given, off by resins that oozed from the
bark of trees. Resins are the source of many traditional perfumes, including frankincense and
myrrh. The most exciting resin came from a Calophyllum tree, which produces a strongly
scented medicinal oil. The sap of this Calophyllum smelt rich and aromatic, a little like church
incense. But It also smelt of something the fragrance industry has learnt to live without
castoreum a substance extracted from the musk glands of beavers and once a key ingredient in
many perfumes. The company does not use animal products any longer, but à was wonderful
to find a tree with an animal smell.
E. The group also set out from the island to capture the smell of coral reefs. Odors that conjure
up sun kissed seas are highly sought after by the perfume industry. “From the ocean, the only
thing we have is seaweed, and that has a dark and heavy aroma. We hope to find something
unique among the corals,” says Dir. The challenge for the hunters was to extract a smell from
water rather than air. This was an opportunity to try Clery’s new “aquaspace” apparatus a set
of filters that work underwater. On Nosy Hara, jars were fixed over knobs of coral about 2
meters down and water pumped out over the absorbent filters. So what does coral smell like?
“It’s a bit like lobster and crab,” says Clery. The team’s task now is to recreate the best of then
captured smells. First they must identify the molecules that make up each fragrance. Some
ingredients may be quite common chemicals. But some may be completely novel, or they may
be too complex or expensive to make in the lab. The challenge then is to conjure up the
fragrances with more readily available materials. “We can avoid the need to import plants from
the rainforest by creating the smell with a different set of chemicals from those in the original
material,” says Clery. “If we get it right, you can sniff the sample and it will transport you
straight back to the moment you smelt it in the rainforest.”
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