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4.2 Potential Problematic Chemicals in Textiles for Recycling
In general, the current surveys from literature and industry of potential substances that may impede
recycling have not been well characterized or reported.
Hazardous or incompatible chemicals present in textile waste sent for recycling is thought to be
less problematic for post-industrial (pre-consumer) waste, especially from known producers, given
that information on composition and chemicals present may be readily available. In addition, risk
of chemical contamination may be reduced at the sorting stage, in cases where finishing chemicals
can be distinguished (i.e water repellent finishing).
28
During mechanical recycling, substances are thought to remain in the outgoing material produced,
due to the low effects of the process on the molecular level.
28,160
Where chemical substances of
concern may be present, this may continue to pose health and environmental issues during the use-
phase of the product.
In chemical recycling (such as depolymerization), a large proportion of chemical constituents in
the textile material is expected to be eliminated by leaching, degradation, or related distillation and
separation processes performed, therefore, the risk of hazardous substances carry-over to recycled
product is low.
28,160,
While some substances
may remain in the material, with limited
understanding of the interaction of certain chemicals in recycling processes applied, it is speculated
that technical issues may arise, such as decreased dyeability or the need for an additional
purification process step.
28,160,161
Difficulties in removal of chemical finishing agents used for flame resistance, and water repellency
have been cited as issues encountered during research-scale chemical
recycling and processing of
synthetic textiles.
162
It was found that cotton fabric containing ‘Easy care’ finishing had reduced
solubility in solvent (NMMO) when the Lyocell recovery method was applied.
91
As a result, the
chemical was removed by treating fabrics with acid-alkali solution prior to applying the Lyocell
process.
92
The chemical bond type from dye to fibres are thought to pose challenges during textile
recovery and recycling; however, removal processes have been demonstrated for various dye
classes. Colourants and other contaminants have been observed to coagulate, or
form insoluble
impurities, which have been problematic for during spinning processes in recycling systems.
93
Several chemical recycling methods surveyed cite pre-treatment steps in which dye and
contaminants are removed. From chemical recycling technology providers surveyed (polyester,
cotton, and polycotton blends), there have been no technical issues associated with dyes and
chemicals present in pre and post-consumer textile materials and blends during processing.
138,140
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Ostlund
et al.
presented potential chemical substances and product types of concern, summarized
in Table 17.
160
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