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Journey of Byron in the East (1809 - 1811)



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1.2. Journey of Byron in the East (1809 - 1811)
At the end of June 1809, Byron and his friend Hobhouse set out on a two-year journey. It was of great importance for the development of his personality and poetic gift. It began with Portugal, then the cities of Spain began. From Spain, Byron went to Malta, then to Greece, Albania, Constantinople, and then returned to Greece.

No matter how amazing the beauty of nature and the majestic ancient culture of these southern countries, Byron did not perceive them outside the life of the peoples who inhabited them. People, their way of life, language, customs, clothes - everything arouses the keen interest of the poet. He is struck by the social contrasts in these countries: on the one hand, poverty, the slavery of peoples, on the other, the unlimited power and arbitrariness of a handful of tyrants. During the journey, Byron was deeply aware of his public vocation as a poet, he sought to convey what he saw in stanzas that denounced the policies of the governments of those countries that supported tyranny and violence against peoples.

Travel impressions took on a different tone: they were either thoughts, or an appeal to the peoples to throw off the yoke of tyranny, or delights in the beauty of women, in front of the exotic nature. These records were mostly laid down in a Spencer stanza, nine -line , with a complex alternation of rhymes; Byron was then working on mastering this stanza, which has its origins in English Renaissance poetry. During the trip, he also created many lyrical poems about memorable meetings and events. At the same time, poems appeared that gave rise to the political lyrics of the poet - “The Song of the Greek Rebels”, “Farewell to Malta”, which adjoined the satire “The Curse of Minerva”, also written during the travel years.

In Malta, Byron began taking Arabic lessons from a monk.

Albania was at that time almost an unknown country. The wild mountains reminded Byron of Scotland. The men wore short skirts, just like the Scottish highlanders, and goatskin cloaks.

Byron admired the splendor of the East - Albanians in embroidered camisoles, Tatars in high hats, black slaves, horses, drums, muezzins, calling out from the minarets of mosques: "There is no God but God." Terrible Ali Pasha turned out to be a small old man of seventy with a white beard, with courteous and dignified manners. But everyone knew that he would, without blinking, roast the enemy on a spit or drown a dozen women in the lake who would not please his daughter-in-law in any way. Love for power, contempt for moral and social conventions, the mystery with which he loved to surround himself, the whole appearance of Ali evoked lively sympathy in Byron. A bandit, a corsair, a chieftain of a gang of robbers - the people of this outcast environment attracted Byron, finding a response in his sense of protest against hypocrisy and in his admiration for courage. The sympathy was mutual. Pasha sent Byron guides and an armed escort for the return trip.

Traveling through a wild country under the protection of armed savages is a dangerous but tempting enterprise. Byron loved the Albanians, they seemed to him simple, loyal people.

From Albania, the British go to Greece. It was a wonderful mountain ride. In the evenings, the souliotes who accompanied them sang songs, which Byron, with the help of an interpreter, transcribed into verse.

Byron was touched when he found himself in Greece. With eyes accustomed to the harsh climate of the north, to landscapes shrouded in mist, to constantly moving clouds, the indigo sky, transparent air, rocky mountains, slightly touched with ocher and saffron, showed a picture of light and happiness.

After Greece, Byron and Hobhouse arrived in Athens, which at that time was a large village. The Turks who occupied the city behaved like conquerors, not like rulers, and left the city to their own fate. In the main cafe near the bazaar, Turkish aghas, squatting, chuckling, smoked nargile.

The French consul Fauvel accompanied the British on their travels in Attica. Through olive groves and meadows of golden flowers they drove to Cape Sounion . Through the white columns of the temple one could see the “purple sea”.

On May 13, 1810, Byron and Hobhouse headed for Constantinople. In Istanbul, Byron was captivated by the landscape - the shores of Europe and Asia, humiliated by palaces, the sparkling dome of the Cathedral of St. Sofia, Princes' Islands, so friendly from afar.

He climbed up the Bosporus and sat on the blue cliffs of the Symplegades , which guard the entrance to the strait and, according to ancient legend, move when they enter the ship to crush it.

Finally, on July 4, 1810, Byron and Hobhouse left Constantinople. Hobhouse returns to England, and Byron goes once more to Athens.

During his second stay in Athens, Byron took up residence in a Capuchin monastery. The location was wonderful: Gimet towered directly opposite , behind the Acropolis, to the right the temple of Jupiter and to the left the city.

The idea of the world that now formed his inner landscape was simple. The globe was created for a purpose unknown to us by a God who, apparently, does not care about our suffering. People who are carried away by their passions or fate are chasing after pleasant sensations or after fame. Kingdoms, empires rise and fall like waves. Everything is vanity except pleasure.

Travel to the East confirmed for him the validity of this doctrine. Wherever Byron went, he saw that life is harsh, vices are inherent in everyone, and death is undemanding and always ready. The fatalism of the Muslims reinforced his fatalism. He liked their attitude towards women. An infinite number of religions convinced him of their weakness. He brought with him doubts that seemed to him invincible. In this long solitude, he learned several truths in himself. I learned that I can only be happy by existing outside the law. He fell in love with these countries, where he did not care about anyone, just like no one before him.

Returning to England, Byron wrote in his diary: “After a two-year journey, I am again on my way to England. I saw everything that is wonderful in Turkey, Troy, Greece, Constantinople and Albania. I do not think that I have done anything that would distinguish me from other travelers, except for swimming from Sestos to Abydos, a feat very worthy for a man of our time ”[6].



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